Tuesday 17 March 2020

São Tomé, The Hemisphere Crossing - The Prologue

The question I was most often asked when I said I had entered a race in São Tomé was 'Where?' This was at least a change from the usual 'Why?' São Tomé lies off the west coast of Africa, almost on the Equator. It is the larger of the two main islands of the Democratic Republic of São Tomé and Principe. There are several small islands one of which, Rolas, is to the south of São Tomé and is actually on the Equator. São Tomé is 50 km long and 30 km wide, Stefan had to work quite hard to fit a 200km run in such a small space!

Here it is!

The islands were uninhabited until their discovery by Portuguese explorers in the 15th century. Gradually colonized and settled by the Portuguese throughout the 16th century, they collectively served as a vital commercial and trade centre for the Atlantic slave trade. The rich volcanic soil and close proximity to the Equator made São Tomé and Príncipe ideal for sugar cultivation, followed later by cash crops such as coffee and cocoa; the lucrative plantation economy was heavily dependent upon imported African slaves. Cycles of social unrest and economic instability throughout the 19th and 20th centuries culminated in peaceful independence in 1975. São Tomé and Príncipe has since remained one of Africa's most stable and democratic countries. With a population of 201,800 (2018 official estimate), São Tomé and Príncipe is the second-smallest African sovereign state after Seychelles, as well as the smallest Portuguese-speaking country. Its people are predominantly of African and mestiço descent, with most practicing Roman Catholicism.

More information can be found by Googling São Tomé and Principe, Wikipedia has quite a good article which may or may not be where I got the short history above from.


I said earlier that Stefan had to work quite hard to fit a 200km route on the island and in fact he hadn't quite made it, the total distance was 198km. However before the race, on Saturday there was to be an untimed prologue around São Tomé Town of about 4.5km. It was to start outside the National Museum we had visited the day before and so we all put on our running kit and walked down to the start.


There were four local runners, two from the sponsors, Valdo and two other local athletes.

The São Tomé Race Team

This was the first time I had met the local athletes, Ismael and Júlio. I had run Cambodia in Hoka Torrents and, as I had no problems with them, I had  bought a bright orange pair to São Tomé. Rumour had it that Ismael and Júlio could run 10km in 30 minutes so I was delighted to see they had exactly the same shoes as me as I felt they would have a much better idea of what was needed for the terrain.


At least I've got the right shoes...

We had a race briefing....

Mafalda, translating

...and just after 9 'o' clock we were off!

Some of the locals taking part in the Prologue

Ryan, the Chief Doctor, leading the pack

The course wasn't marked and the roads weren't closed but we were lead through the streets by a police truck. This worked quite well on the less crowded streets...

Downtown São Tomé

...but became a bit more of a challenge around the market.

Slightly slower past the market

No one cared as it wasn't a race and it all added to the fun.

We came back to the National Museum to run through the finishing arch and then went into the museum for a look round and prize giving. Actually it wasn't a prize giving as such but Stefan had a selection of hats and t-shirts he gave out to the locals that had joined us on the run.

Finsished! (Photo credit: Global Limits)

I climbed the small light house tower and found Ismael and Júlio already there. This would set the tone for the week, they were generally everywhere before me. I took the opportunity to get a photo with them and our matching shoes.

Some immensely talented runners and me 


We walked back to the hotel and had a quick shower before packing up, checking out and getting into the mini-buses to go to our first camp, Agostinho Neto, the abandoned Botanical Garden House. There was a lunch stop, which was nice, but on to the camp.
The accommodation was interesting to say the least. We were in a couple of large rooms inside slightly small free standing mosquito nets that had taken five and a half months to travel from China.


Not many race camps have chandeliers! 

I had a walk around the grounds...


Our accommodation building



Some people had brought hammocks



The gardens



Local accommodation

...until we were informed there was a bar nearby. We could visit it but the only stipulation was that we should be back for the opening race briefing at 5 pm so off we went.

More anonymous beer


I doubt this bar had ever seen so many foreigners

As we had promised we returned for the race briefing (Mafalda translated as necessary).


Race briefing - Loz is eating as usual (Photo credit: Global Limits)


Afterwards I had food sorted out my kit and then settled down in my mosquito net. Tomorrow the race proper would start...

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